Jeb Dunnuck (96-98) – “Coming all from very old vine Grenache and brought up in tank, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Imperiale offers a smoking bouquet of vivid black raspberry and cassis intermixed with lots of flowery incense, licorice, and spring flowers. Reminding me of a Grand Cru Red Burgundy on the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, has a vibrant, tight, focused texture, polished tannins, and beautifully integrated acidity. It’s one classy Châteauneuf du Pape that will evolve for two decades.
Readers looking for the next superstar estate in Châteauneuf du Pape and Côtes du Rhône need to get on Raymond Usseglio’s bandwagon ASAP as the quality here is equal to anything out there today. I still remember writing in 2016 how the quality was on the uptick, and there’s no better example than these latest 2018s and 2019s. The 2018s show the prettier, more elegant style of the vintage, yet bring ample depth and concentration. The 2019s are a step up and offer another level of depth and concentration. Both vintages show incredible purity of fruit and balance.”
Vinous Media 95 – “Saturated magenta. Highly perfumed raspberry and cherry liqueur, exotic spice, incense and potpourri aromas are complicated by hints of musky herbs and smoky minerals. Juicy, seamless and energetic on the palate, offering pliant red berry, cherry cola, allspice and lavender flavors that show superb definition and back-end lift. Polished, even tannins lend grip to a strikingly long, penetrating finish that echoes the floral and mineral notes. These vines were reportedly planted in 1901 and 1902.
The lineup of wines at Domaine Raymond Usseglio has been expanding in recent years,, with an increase in overall quality as well. Raymond’s son, Stéphane, is now in charge of winemaking. The family’s 30-hectare estate includes many vines that are over a century old. A wide range of vessels are utilized in the cellar, ranging from large concrete vats to barriques. The wines are typically aromatically expressive straight out of the gate. The user-friendly character of the last three vintages has suited the house style well, and I suspect that the 2019s, in particular, will surprise people with their ability to age and evolve.”
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