2022 Billaud-Simon Chablis Bougros Grand Cru (Pre-arrival)

Be aware that Bailly noted that to this point the Bougros had only seen contact with stainless steel though it’s possible he may rack it into barrel for a few months before it’s bottled. A cool and reserved nose grudgingly offers up a combination of pronounced smoky mineral reduction, quinine and ocean breeze. The powerful, concentrated and muscular big-bodied flavors possess a lovely sense of underlying tension that also suffuses the crisp, very dry and beautifully long finish. This isn’t refined, indeed it’s borderline rustic but then again, elegance isn’t why one buys Bougros. (Drink starting 2031)